The Development of the Ikat Limar Weaving Industry in Terengganu: The Role of the British and Global Impact, 1900-1941

Abstract

Terengganu is renowned for its rich and distinguished cultural heritage on the global stage. Among the unique heritage items found in Terengganu is the songket weaving. There are several types of songket weaving favored by society, particularly the aristocracy or royalty, including ikat limar weaving. Historically, ikat limar weaving has existed since the 19th century and continued to develop throughout the 20th century. As ikat limar weaving significantly contributed to the economic progress of Terengganu, both the government and the British took measures to advance it. This study aims to examine the extent of the government's role in promoting the development of this industry as a key economic aspect of the region from 1900 to 1941. Additionally, the study seeks to explore how the efforts to advance the textile industry to an international level were implemented and the impact of these actions. This research is historically themed and employs a fully qualitative methodology. Sources and materials were obtained from the National Archives (Kew Gardens) in London and the National Archives of Malaysia, such as CO 840/1 (Terengganu Administrative Report, 1910-1930), CO 840/2 (Terengganu Administrative Report, 1931-1940), the Terengganu State Secretary Files, and the British Adviser Files of Terengganu. Secondary sources such as journals, books, book chapters, and magazines were also used to further strengthen this research. The findings indicate that songket weaving, including ikat limar, was very popular among the society, especially the royal class. Moreover, the development of weaving activities in Terengganu provides a deeper understanding of how interactions between the Malay elite and the British contributed to advancing the local industry, ultimately shaping Terengganu's economic landscape during that period.